The accessory library fills your board: hooks, shelves, bins, tool holders, cable organisers, cups and holders. Every accessory is generated on demand with clips shaped for your pegboard type, so the whole library works on the capsule system, every classic round-hole board and the Custom boards you design. Open it from Accessories in the app’s sidebar.
Packs
The library has 26 accessories in four packs, and you can filter by pack, by category or by searching in English or Spanish:
| Pack | Accessories |
|---|---|
| Essentials | Single, double, J and long hooks; shelf and lipped shelf; small and large bins |
| Workshop | Screwdriver rack, plier holder, hex key holder, bit holder, wrench rack, spray can ring, angled shelf |
| Desk | Phone holder, tablet ledge, headphone hanger, cable hook, cable comb, cup holder |
| Craft | Divided tray, marker cup, scissors holder, label plate, spool & tape holder |
More packs are released during and after the campaign; the Kitchen and Garage packs, together with accessory remixing (combining parts, such as a shelf with hooks underneath), are the Accessory expansion stretch goal. New packs appear in your library automatically; there is nothing to download or install.
Who gets what
| Tier | Exports / month | Workflows | Accessory library |
|---|---|---|---|
| Basic | 8 | Shaped panels | Basic subset (≈ ⅓ of each pack) |
| Maker | 20 | All four | Full library |
| Commercial | 100 | All four | Full library |
| Commercial Plus | Unlimited | All four | Full library |
The Basic selection is about a third of every pack — including packs released later — chosen so you can equip a board completely; those items carry a Basic badge. Items outside your plan show a lock with the tier that unlocks them. You can still open them, change their sizes and look at the 3D preview; only the export needs the upgrade.
Clip mounting
By default an accessory is printed as several pieces: the body (the hook, shelf or bin with its back plate) and small separate clips that hold it on the board. The clips are separate on purpose: each one prints on its side, which is its strongest direction and needs no supports, and a worn or broken clip can simply be reprinted. If you’d rather print one piece with nothing to assemble, set Clips to Built in: see Built-in clips.
- Hook clips go into holes in the top row. Their lip drops down behind the board and carries the load.
- Anti-lift stubs go into a hole below each hook. They stop the accessory from lifting off when you bump it, and from turning.
The configurator shows how many of each your accessory needs and how they are mounted (for example Holds with 2 hook clips and 1 anti-lift stub · Crush ribs). Clips always sit on real holes of your board; the back plate grows when the clips need more room. If no stub fits, the app warns you and suggests making the accessory a little taller.
Choose a clip mounting
With Clips on Printed separately (the default), Clip mounting in the configurator decides how the clips are held in the back plate. The table sets the three clip mountings side by side with built-in clips:
| Clip mounting | Crush ribsDefault | Back slot + glue | Filament pin | Built in |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Goes in from | The front of the plate | The back of the plate | The front of the plate | Nothing to fit: part of the body |
| Glue | OptionalOptional: a pin-head of gel CA (PLA) or thin epoxy (PETG). | RequiredRequired: gel CA for PLA, 2-part epoxy for PETG, a thin film on the clip foot. | A small plug behind each pinA drop of hot glue or gel CA behind each pin keeps it in; pick it out to swap clips. | None |
| Extra parts | None | None | 1.75 mm filament, one short piece per clip | None |
| Supports when printing | NoThe body and the clips print without supports | NoThe body and the clips print without supports | NoThe body and the clips print without supports | Yes, under the hooks and stubsFrom the build plate only; remove them and clean the undersides after printing |
| Needs front finger access | YesTo press the clips in: a finger, a pen or a screwdriver handle | NoThe clips go in from the back | YesTo press the clips in: a finger, a pen or a screwdriver handle | NoNothing to press in |
| Clip fit changes | The clips only | The clips only | The clips and the body | Nothing: there is no clip fit |
| Hook strength | Higher: the clips print on their side, layers along the hook | Higher: the clips print on their side, layers along the hook | Higher: the clips print on their side, layers along the hook | Lower: the hook lips print across their layers |
| Swap clips or boards | Yes, while ungluedThe body takes new clips: a worn clip, another clip fit, or the other EU 5/25 thickness | No: glued clips are permanentA new clip means a new body | YesPick the plug and push the pin out: the body takes new clips, or the other EU 5/25 thickness | No: made for one boardAnother pegboard type or thickness, or a broken hook, means reprinting the whole accessory |
| Removal | Unglued clips push out from the back; glued ones stay. | Permanent once glued: a new clip means a new body. | Pick the plug, push the pin out and swap the clip; the body stays. | Lift it off the board; the hooks are part of the body. |
| Choose it when | The simplest choice when you can reach the front of the plate. | The front must stay flat or you cannot reach it (bins, cups), and permanent clips are fine. | You want clips that never walk out yet stay swappable, and you have 1.75 mm filament. | You want one print with nothing to assemble, and supports and a body made for one board are fine. |
| Back plate (W × H) and parts to print, per accessory, on the pegboard type chosen above | ||||
| Single hook | Capsule system: 16 × 83 mm · 3 partsUS 1/4″: 16 × 65.5 mm · 3 partsEU 5/25, 6 mm: 16 × 63 mm · 3 parts | Capsule system: 16 × 63 mm · 3 partsUS 1/4″: 16 × 45.5 mm · 3 partsEU 5/25, 6 mm: 16 × 45.5 mm · 3 parts | Capsule system: 16 × 83 mm · 3 parts2 filament pins × 10 mmUS 1/4″: 18.5 × 65.5 mm · 3 parts2 filament pins × 12 mmPlate widened for the clipsEU 5/25, 6 mm: 16 × 63 mm · 3 parts2 filament pins × 10 mm | Capsule system: 16 × 53 mm · 1 part, the bodyPrinted with supportsUS 1/4″: 16 × 45.5 mm · 1 part, the bodyPrinted with supportsEU 5/25, 6 mm: 16 × 45.5 mm · 1 part, the bodyPrinted with supports |
| Double hook | Capsule system: 50 × 47.75 mm · 4 partsUS 1/4″: 50 × 62.75 mm · 5 partsEU 5/25, 6 mm: 50 × 60.25 mm · 5 parts | Capsule system: 50 × 42.75 mm · 4 partsUS 1/4″: 50 × 45.25 mm · 5 partsEU 5/25, 6 mm: 50 × 42.75 mm · 5 parts | Capsule system: 55 × 45.25 mm · 4 parts3 filament pins × 10 mmPlate widened for the clipsUS 1/4″: 50 × 62.75 mm · 5 parts4 filament pins × 12 mmEU 5/25, 6 mm: 50 × 60.25 mm · 5 parts4 filament pins × 10 mm | Capsule system: 50 × 42.75 mm · 1 part, the bodyPrinted with supportsUS 1/4″: 50 × 42.75 mm · 1 part, the bodyPrinted with supportsEU 5/25, 6 mm: 50 × 42.75 mm · 1 part, the bodyPrinted with supports |
| Small bin | Capsule system: 60 × 40 mm · 4 partsUS 1/4″: 60 × 40 mm · 5 partsEU 5/25, 6 mm: 60 × 40 mm · 5 parts | Capsule system: 60 × 42.5 mm · 4 partsUS 1/4″: 60 × 45 mm · 5 partsEU 5/25, 6 mm: 60 × 42.5 mm · 5 parts | Capsule system: 60 × 40 mm · 4 parts3 filament pins × 10 mmUS 1/4″: 60 × 40 mm · 5 parts4 filament pins × 12 mmEU 5/25, 6 mm: 60 × 40 mm · 5 parts4 filament pins × 10 mm | Capsule system: 60 × 40 mm · 1 part, the bodyPrinted with supportsUS 1/4″: 60 × 40 mm · 1 part, the bodyPrinted with supportsEU 5/25, 6 mm: 60 × 40 mm · 1 part, the bodyPrinted with supports |
| Shelf | Capsule system: 100 × 56 mm · 5 partsUS 1/4″: 100 × 56 mm · 5 partsEU 5/25, 6 mm: 100 × 56 mm · 5 parts | Capsule system: 100 × 56 mm · 5 partsUS 1/4″: 100 × 56 mm · 5 partsEU 5/25, 6 mm: 100 × 56 mm · 5 parts | Capsule system: 100 × 56 mm · 5 parts4 filament pins × 10 mmUS 1/4″: 100 × 56 mm · 5 parts4 filament pins × 12 mmEU 5/25, 6 mm: 100 × 56 mm · 5 parts4 filament pins × 10 mm | Capsule system: 100 × 56 mm · 1 part, the bodyPrinted with supportsUS 1/4″: 100 × 56 mm · 1 part, the bodyPrinted with supportsEU 5/25, 6 mm: 100 × 56 mm · 1 part, the bodyPrinted with supports |
| Label plate | Capsule system: 80 × 40 mm · 4 partsUS 1/4″: 80 × 40 mm · 5 partsEU 5/25, 6 mm: 80 × 40 mm · 5 parts | Capsule system: 80 × 42.5 mm · 4 partsUS 1/4″: 80 × 45 mm · 5 partsEU 5/25, 6 mm: 80 × 42.5 mm · 5 parts | Capsule system: 80 × 40 mm · 4 parts3 filament pins × 10 mmUS 1/4″: 80 × 40 mm · 5 parts4 filament pins × 12 mmEU 5/25, 6 mm: 80 × 40 mm · 5 parts4 filament pins × 10 mm | Capsule system: 80 × 40 mm · 4 partsPrints on its back: separate clips, crush ribsUS 1/4″: 80 × 40 mm · 5 partsPrints on its back: separate clips, crush ribsEU 5/25, 6 mm: 80 × 40 mm · 5 partsPrints on its back: separate clips, crush ribs |
Back plates and parts come from the geometry engine, with every accessory at its default size and a Normal clip fit. Parts are the printed pieces: the body and its clips, or the body alone with built-in clips; filament pins are listed on their own line.
In the app, See how they work under the clip mounting cards (See how it works under the built-in card, with built-in clips) shows each one in 3D, step by step, on your pegboard type (or the closest predefined one), with live numbers for your accessory.
The configurator’s How to assemble panel and the README.txt of every accessory export give the steps for the mounting you chose, with the exact pin length for the filament pin. If the chosen mounting doesn’t suit how an accessory prints, or its back plate has no room for the pin grooves, its clips use crush ribs and the Checks list tells you. More clip mountings may follow once they pass physical testing.
Crush ribs
Each clip is pressed in from the front and small ribs in its socket grip it. A drop of glue makes it permanent.
Capsule system: a single hook at its default size, Normal clip fit.
- board
- back plate
- hook clip
- stub clip
- goes in from the front
- Exploded: the parts pulled apart the way they go together; the board is on the left, the front on the right.
- The clips press in from the front of the plate until each head stops in its counterbore.
- board
- back plate
- hook clip
- stub clip
- Head 2 mm thick in a 2.2 mm counterbore: its front sits 0.2 mm below the plate face, its back on the counterbore floor at z = 2.8 mm.
- Keyed hook head: 2 mm above the shank, 3.2 mm below it, with a 0.8 mm × 45° mark on its front-bottom edge. An upside-down hook clip cannot seat.
- Lock-safe sockets: the hook socket touches the top of the shank, the stub socket the bottom of its shank, so the worst lift is exactly 2.63 mm (drop 5.31 mm).
- back plate
- hook clip head
- rib (overlap = crush)
- Rib height 0.4 mm on a 0.25 mm wall gap: the crest overlaps the head by 0.05 / 0.15 / 0.25 mm per side at Loose / Normal / Tight once the ribs centre it.
- The model shows the clip before it crushes the ribs, so the overlap is the plastic the ribs give up.
US 1/4″: a single hook at its default size, Normal clip fit.
- board
- back plate
- hook clip
- stub clip
- goes in from the front
- Exploded: the parts pulled apart the way they go together; the board is on the left, the front on the right.
- The clips press in from the front of the plate until each head stops in its counterbore.
- board
- back plate
- hook clip
- stub clip
- Head 2 mm thick in a 2.2 mm counterbore: its front sits 0.2 mm below the plate face, its back on the counterbore floor at z = 2.8 mm.
- Keyed hook head: 2 mm above the shank, 3.2 mm below it, with a 0.8 mm × 45° mark on its front-bottom edge. An upside-down hook clip cannot seat.
- Lock-safe sockets: the hook socket touches the top of the shank, the stub socket the bottom of its shank, so the worst lift is exactly 1.27 mm (drop 2.49 mm).
- back plate
- hook clip head
- rib (overlap = crush)
- Rib height 0.4 mm on a 0.25 mm wall gap: the crest overlaps the head by 0.05 / 0.15 / 0.25 mm per side at Loose / Normal / Tight once the ribs centre it.
- The model shows the clip before it crushes the ribs, so the overlap is the plastic the ribs give up.
EU 5/25, 6 mm: a single hook at its default size, Normal clip fit.
- board
- back plate
- hook clip
- stub clip
- goes in from the front
- Exploded: the parts pulled apart the way they go together; the board is on the left, the front on the right.
- The clips press in from the front of the plate until each head stops in its counterbore.
- board
- back plate
- hook clip
- stub clip
- Head 2 mm thick in a 2.2 mm counterbore: its front sits 0.2 mm below the plate face, its back on the counterbore floor at z = 2.8 mm.
- Keyed hook head: 2 mm above the shank, 3.2 mm below it, with a 0.8 mm × 45° mark on its front-bottom edge. An upside-down hook clip cannot seat.
- Lock-safe sockets: the hook socket touches the top of the shank, the stub socket the bottom of its shank, so the worst lift is exactly 1.07 mm (drop 1.7 mm).
- back plate
- hook clip head
- rib (overlap = crush)
- Rib height 0.4 mm on a 0.25 mm wall gap: the crest overlaps the head by 0.05 / 0.15 / 0.25 mm per side at Loose / Normal / Tight once the ribs centre it.
- The model shows the clip before it crushes the ribs, so the overlap is the plastic the ribs give up.
- Find the hook clip: it has the lip and a chamfered front-bottom edge on its head. It goes in the upper socket, lip down and chamfer down. The stub also fits the upper socket, so check before pressing; the stub goes in the lower socket.
- Press the clips in. Rest the plate with the clip ends free — over a table edge, an open vise or a gap between two books — and push each clip straight in with your thumb or a screwdriver handle until the head stops, just below the surface. It stays in by itself. On bins, cups and trays, press through the open top; with less than 18 mm in front of the head, push with a pen or a screwdriver handle.
- Optional, for a permanent hold: a pin-head of gel CA (PLA) or thin epoxy (PETG), from a toothpick or a micro-tip, never a drop from the bottle. Wipe any glue off the clip neck and let it cure before hanging.
Unglued clips come out from the back: push the neck or the stub tip forwards with a screwdriver, or pry the head out at the mouth chamfer with a thin blade. The ribs lose a little grip each time; re-seat the clip with a Tight clip, or glue it.
Back slot + glue
Each clip slides into a slot in the back of the plate and is glued. No front access is needed; once glued, the clip is permanent.
Capsule system: a single hook at its default size, Normal clip fit.
- board
- back plate
- hook clip
- stub clip
- goes in from the back, along its ramp
- Exploded: the parts pulled apart the way they go together; the board is on the left, the front on the right.
- The clips slide in from the back of the plate, each along its own 45° ramp (hook up and in, stub down and in), and are glued.
- board
- back plate
- hook clip
- stub clip
- The front face stays flat: both slots open in the plate back, so no front access is needed.
- Hook slots ramp up and in, stub slots down and in: weight pushes the hook foot deeper, a lift pushes the stub foot deeper, and neither load pulls a foot out or loads the glue.
- The feet lean opposite ways, so each clip fits only its own slot.
- board
- back plate
- slot (45° ramp)
- hook clip foot and bumps
- 45° stop face
- goes in up and in
- Foot 3 mm deep, 0.25 mm inside the back face; the floor is clearance only (0.35 mm), so sag, glue and debris cannot shim the foot. The stop face is perpendicular to the ramp.
- Two crush bumps push the foot onto its load face (the roof): 0.05 / 0.15 / 0.25 mm interference at Loose / Normal / Tight; 0.15 mm clearance per ramp face.
- Unglued, a full lift (2.63 mm) slides the foot 0.13 mm past the printable edge of the roof: no ramp hold is left, so the glue is what locks it here.
US 1/4″: a single hook at its default size, Normal clip fit.
- board
- back plate
- hook clip
- stub clip
- goes in from the back, along its ramp
- Exploded: the parts pulled apart the way they go together; the board is on the left, the front on the right.
- The clips slide in from the back of the plate, each along its own 45° ramp (hook up and in, stub down and in), and are glued.
- board
- back plate
- hook clip
- stub clip
- The front face stays flat: both slots open in the plate back, so no front access is needed.
- Hook slots ramp up and in, stub slots down and in: weight pushes the hook foot deeper, a lift pushes the stub foot deeper, and neither load pulls a foot out or loads the glue.
- The feet lean opposite ways, so each clip fits only its own slot.
- board
- back plate
- slot (45° ramp)
- hook clip foot and bumps
- 45° stop face
- goes in up and in
- Foot 3 mm deep, 0.25 mm inside the back face; the floor is clearance only (0.35 mm), so sag, glue and debris cannot shim the foot. The stop face is perpendicular to the ramp.
- Two crush bumps push the foot onto its load face (the roof): 0.05 / 0.15 / 0.25 mm interference at Loose / Normal / Tight; 0.15 mm clearance per ramp face.
- Unglued, after a full lift (1.27 mm) the ramp roof still blocks 1.23 mm of pull-out. Glue it anyway: the steps say so.
EU 5/25, 6 mm: a single hook at its default size, Normal clip fit.
- board
- back plate
- hook clip
- stub clip
- goes in from the back, along its ramp
- Exploded: the parts pulled apart the way they go together; the board is on the left, the front on the right.
- The clips slide in from the back of the plate, each along its own 45° ramp (hook up and in, stub down and in), and are glued.
- board
- back plate
- hook clip
- stub clip
- The front face stays flat: both slots open in the plate back, so no front access is needed.
- Hook slots ramp up and in, stub slots down and in: weight pushes the hook foot deeper, a lift pushes the stub foot deeper, and neither load pulls a foot out or loads the glue.
- The feet lean opposite ways, so each clip fits only its own slot.
- board
- back plate
- slot (45° ramp)
- hook clip foot and bumps
- 45° stop face
- goes in up and in
- Foot 3 mm deep, 0.25 mm inside the back face; the floor is clearance only (0.35 mm), so sag, glue and debris cannot shim the foot. The stop face is perpendicular to the ramp.
- Two crush bumps push the foot onto its load face (the roof): 0.05 / 0.15 / 0.25 mm interference at Loose / Normal / Tight; 0.15 mm clearance per ramp face.
- Unglued, after a full lift (1.07 mm) the ramp roof still blocks 1.43 mm of pull-out. Glue it anyway: the steps say so.
- Hold the accessory back face up. Hook slots ramp up and in, stub slots ramp down and in; each clip fits only its own slot.
- Glue the feet. With a toothpick, spread a thin film on the two sides and on the top and bottom faces of each clip foot. Keep the front face of the foot, its stop step and the slot dry. PLA: gel (medium) CA or 2-part epoxy. PETG: 2-part epoxy, 5-minute or slower, with the foot scuffed first — CA bonds PETG poorly. No hot glue and no solvents.
- Push each foot along its slot ramp until it stops (hook: up and in; stub: down and in) and hold it for 30 s. Wipe any glue at the mouth: the back face must stay clean.
- Let the glue cure before hanging: gel CA about 10 min to handle and 24 h to full strength; epoxy as its label says. Never hang an accessory with wet glue, which could bond the plate or a clip neck to the board.
Glued clips can’t be taken out: forcing one breaks its neck and leaves the foot in the slot. Don’t heat the part to release epoxy — PLA softens before the glue lets go.
Filament pin
Clips go in from the front, and a piece of 1.75 mm filament in a groove on the back locks each one. The glue is only a plug that keeps the pin from sliding back, so the clips can still be swapped. The back plate may grow a little on each side to make room for the grooves.
Capsule system: a single hook at its default size, Normal clip fit.
- board
- back plate
- hook clip
- stub clip
- filament pins
- goes in from the front
- Exploded: the parts pulled apart the way they go together; the board is on the left, the front on the right.
- The clips press in from the front; then a piece of 1.75 mm filament slides along a groove in the back and through each clip.
- The pins are drawn as their outline: they wait beside the plate before they go in.
- board
- back plate
- hook clip
- stub clip
- filament pins
- Head 1.6 mm in a 1.8 mm counterbore (floor at z = 3.2 mm). The pin crosses each clip at z = 2 mm from the plate back, inside the plate.
- Once hung, the board face covers every groove: the pins cannot leave.
- back plate
- hook clip shank
- stub clip shank
- filament pins
- On this plate the hook groove runs out through the left edge seen from the front (right in this back view): the pin slides in from the edge. On wider plates the window is closed (pin + 1.5 mm) and the pin drops in from the back.
- Past the socket: a 2 mm stop run, the step the pin end stops on, and a 1.5 mm shallow port where a needle pushes the pin back out.
US 1/4″: a single hook at its default size, Normal clip fit.
- board
- back plate
- hook clip
- stub clip
- filament pins
- goes in from the front
- Exploded: the parts pulled apart the way they go together; the board is on the left, the front on the right.
- The clips press in from the front; then a piece of 1.75 mm filament slides along a groove in the back and through each clip.
- The pins are drawn as their outline: they wait beside the plate before they go in.
- board
- back plate
- hook clip
- stub clip
- filament pins
- Head 1.6 mm in a 1.8 mm counterbore (floor at z = 3.2 mm). The pin crosses each clip at z = 2 mm from the plate back, inside the plate.
- Once hung, the board face covers every groove: the pins cannot leave.
- back plate
- hook clip shank
- stub clip shank
- filament pins
- On this plate the hook groove runs out through the left edge seen from the front (right in this back view): the pin slides in from the edge. On wider plates the window is closed (pin + 1.5 mm) and the pin drops in from the back.
- Past the socket: a 2 mm stop run, the step the pin end stops on, and a 1.5 mm shallow port where a needle pushes the pin back out.
EU 5/25, 6 mm: a single hook at its default size, Normal clip fit.
- board
- back plate
- hook clip
- stub clip
- filament pins
- goes in from the front
- Exploded: the parts pulled apart the way they go together; the board is on the left, the front on the right.
- The clips press in from the front; then a piece of 1.75 mm filament slides along a groove in the back and through each clip.
- The pins are drawn as their outline: they wait beside the plate before they go in.
- board
- back plate
- hook clip
- stub clip
- filament pins
- Head 1.6 mm in a 1.8 mm counterbore (floor at z = 3.2 mm). The pin crosses each clip at z = 2 mm from the plate back, inside the plate.
- Once hung, the board face covers every groove: the pins cannot leave.
- back plate
- hook clip shank
- stub clip shank
- filament pins
- On this plate the hook groove runs out through the left edge seen from the front (right in this back view): the pin slides in from the edge. On wider plates the window is closed (pin + 1.5 mm) and the pin drops in from the back.
- Past the socket: a 2 mm stop run, the step the pin end stops on, and a 1.5 mm shallow port where a needle pushes the pin back out.
- Cut one piece of 1.75 mm filament per clip, at the length the configurator and the README give. Where a groove ends in a closed window (not at the plate edge), an empty one works as a gauge: lay the filament in it and cut about 1.5 mm short of the window’s end. Cut with a sharp blade, or with the flat face of flush cutters towards the piece you keep, and scrape any burr off the front end.
- Push each clip into its socket from the front until the head stops, just below the surface. A small rib holds it.
- Lay the accessory face down and drop a pin into each window: it settles in the V of the groove. Where a groove runs out to the edge of the plate, slide the pin in from that edge instead.
- Push the pin along, through the clip’s cross hole, until it stops. If it stops at the clip, press the clip’s head in and lift the pin’s front end slightly with the blade tip while you push.
- Plug each pin with a drop of hot glue or gel CA in the window just behind its end (or at the plate edge where the groove runs out), inside the groove and below the back face. Never use thin CA: it wicks along the pin into the cross hole and glues the clip in. On PETG bodies, use hot glue.
To swap a clip, take the accessory down, pick the glue plug out of the window (or the plate edge), push the pin back into the window, or out through the plate edge where the groove runs out, with a needle or a thin hex key through the port at the other end of the groove, lift the pin out and push the clip out of the front. The body stays: fit a new clip and pin it the same way.
Built-in clips
Set Clips to Built in and the hooks and stubs become part of the body: one piece, with nothing to assemble, glue or fit. They have the same shape as the hooks and stubs of the separate clips, so the accessory hangs and locks the same way, and its back plate is rarely larger than with crush ribs.
Capsule system: a single hook at its default size, with built-in clips (no clip fit).
- board
- body: back plate, built-in hook and stub, one piece
- The hook and the stub grow out of the back of the plate: one piece with the body, no socket and nothing to fit.
- The same hook and stub shapes as the separate clips: the lip drops 5.31 mm behind the board, and the stub stops a lift after 2.63 mm.
- board
- built-in hook (neck in the hole)
- built-in stub (in the hole)
- Seen from the front, through the board: the neck and the stub sit in their holes like a separate clip’s; the back plate, in front of the board, is cut away.
- print bed
- body, upright on its bottom edge
- supports (printed, then removed)
- The body prints standing as mounted, on its bottom edge: the hook lip hangs down behind the plate and would start in mid-air.
- Supports from the build plate only (tree supports work well): under the hook lip and neck and under the stub. Where the stub is below the neck, the neck spans from the plate to the supports.
- Remove them and clean the underside of every lip and stub: a burr there can stop it entering its hole.
US 1/4″: a single hook at its default size, with built-in clips (no clip fit).
- board
- body: back plate, built-in hook and stub, one piece
- The hook and the stub grow out of the back of the plate: one piece with the body, no socket and nothing to fit.
- The same hook and stub shapes as the separate clips: the lip drops 2.49 mm behind the board, and the stub stops a lift after 1.27 mm.
- board
- built-in hook (neck in the hole)
- built-in stub (in the hole)
- Seen from the front, through the board: the neck and the stub sit in their holes like a separate clip’s; the back plate, in front of the board, is cut away.
- print bed
- body, upright on its bottom edge
- supports (printed, then removed)
- The body prints standing as mounted, on its bottom edge: the hook lip hangs down behind the plate and would start in mid-air.
- Supports from the build plate only (tree supports work well): under the hook lip and neck and under the stub. Where the stub is below the neck, the neck spans from the plate to the supports.
- Remove them and clean the underside of every lip and stub: a burr there can stop it entering its hole.
EU 5/25, 6 mm: a single hook at its default size, with built-in clips (no clip fit).
- board
- body: back plate, built-in hook and stub, one piece
- The hook and the stub grow out of the back of the plate: one piece with the body, no socket and nothing to fit.
- The same hook and stub shapes as the separate clips: the lip drops 1.7 mm behind the board, and the stub stops a lift after 1.07 mm.
- board
- built-in hook (neck in the hole)
- built-in stub (in the hole)
- Seen from the front, through the board: the neck and the stub sit in their holes like a separate clip’s; the back plate, in front of the board, is cut away.
- print bed
- body, upright on its bottom edge
- supports (printed, then removed)
- The body prints standing as mounted, on its bottom edge: the hook lip hangs down behind the plate and would start in mid-air.
- Supports from the build plate only (tree supports work well): under the hook lip and neck and under the stub. Where the stub is below the neck, the neck spans from the plate to the supports.
- Remove them and clean the underside of every lip and stub: a burr there can stop it entering its hole.
- It needs supports. The body prints standing upright, as placed: each hook’s lip hangs down behind the plate and would start in mid-air. Turn supports on, from the build plate only (tree supports work well): they go under the hooks and stubs, behind the back plate. Remove them and clean the underside of every lip and stub before hanging.
- It is made for one board. A body with built-in clips fits one pegboard type and thickness. For another board, or if a hook breaks, reprint the whole accessory.
- Separate clips are stronger. They print on their side, with the layers along the hook, and need no supports; built-in lips print across their layers.
- Not for accessories printed on their back. The label plate and the angled shelf can’t have built-in clips: they use separate clips with the clip mounting you chose, and the Checks list tells you.
Hang it
- Tilt the accessory and put the hook clips into their holes in the board.
- Let it drop: the hook lips slide down behind the board.
- Swing the bottom in so the stubs enter their holes. The accessory now sits flat and can’t be lifted off by accident.
To take it off, lift it slightly, swing the bottom out and unhook it.
Clip fit
Clip fit — Loose, Normal or Tight — absorbs your printer’s tolerance. What it changes depends on the mounting, and the configurator names what to reprint after you change it (built-in clips have nothing to fit):
| Method | Clip fit changes | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Crush ribs | The clips only | Too hard to press: reprint the clips Loose, or shave the rib crests with a craft knife. Slides in freely: reprint them Tight, or glue. With PETG, start with Loose. |
| Back slot + glue | The clips only (their crush bumps) | Reprint the clips if they are too loose or too tight in their slots. PLA: Normal. PETG or printers that print loose: Tight. |
| Filament pin | The pin hole in the clips and the small hold rib in the body | Pin won’t go through: Loose. Pin rattles: Tight. Reprint the clips and the body. |
Clip fit is about the clips in the accessory’s back plate. How they fit the holes of your board is a separate matter: see Made for your pegboard type.
Swapping clips
- Same pegboard type: the body takes new clips. Reprint a worn or broken clip, try another clip fit (with the filament pin, reprint the body too), or move an EU 5/25 accessory between a 6 mm and a 3 mm board: the clips carry the board thickness, and the body stays the same. Export the accessory again with the new settings and print only what you need.
- Another pegboard type — another grid or other holes — needs a new body and new clips.
- Glued clips are permanent: always with back slot + glue, and with crush ribs once you have glued them. Filament-pin clips come out once you pick the glue plug out.
- Built-in clips can’t be swapped: they are part of the body, made for one pegboard type and thickness.
Made for your pegboard type
Pick the pegboard type in the configurator — capsule system, US 1/4″, US 1/8″, EU 5/25 or Custom. The app remembers your choice for the next accessory. The type decides how the accessory attaches:
- Capsule system — capsule clips and hooks sized for the 5 × 15 mm slots and the 20/40 mm grid, locking downwards like the originals.
- US 1/4″, US 1/8″ and EU 5/25 — printed pegs on the exact grid pitch: 25.4 mm for the US types, 25 mm for EU 5/25.
- Custom — printed pegs sized to the holes you enter in the Holes group that appears when you pick it: hole shape (round, capsule or square), size, column and row spacing and column offset, as in your board’s Custom type. The app remembers them for the next accessory.
The pegboard thickness follows the type too, so the clips close around a board of the right thickness: 5 mm on the capsule system, 6.35 mm (1/4″) and 3.18 mm (1/8″) on the US types, and 6 mm or 3 mm on EU 5/25 — pick the one your board has. A Custom board takes any thickness from 2 to 12 mm: enter the one yours has. See Standards at a glance.
Printed pegs are made for holes from about 3 to 18 mm across: round holes from Ø 3 to 18.1 mm, square holes from 2.8 to 17.6 mm and capsule slots from 3.3 to 18 mm, on both sides. In that range every peg locks: its anti-lift stub stops the accessory well before the hook could lift out.
- Smaller holes are too tight for a peg that locks. The configurator tells you the size the holes need and holds the export until they reach it.
- Larger holes get the largest peg, 12 × 14 mm, which sits loose in them and may not stop the accessory lifting off. The configurator warns you and gives the largest size; the export stays available.
- Rows far apart: the anti-lift stub goes in a hole below the hook, within the accessory’s back plate. When your rows are further apart than the plate can reach, the configurator tells you the row spacing that leaves room for one.
The clips and pegs keep 0.2 mm of play per side in the holes as entered, which suits store-bought boards and boards printed with a hole clearance of 0 or more. If you printed your board with a negative hole clearance, its holes came out smaller: on a Custom type, enter them at the printed size (6 mm holes at −0.3 mm: 5.7 mm).
Because pegs are placed on the exact pitch, an accessory made for one grid won’t fit the other if it spans several holes — see never mix 25 and 25.4 mm grids.
Configure
Each accessory has its own size and options — lengths, widths, depths, the number of slots or compartments — plus a filament colour. The 3D preview updates as you change them, Reset brings back the defaults, and the app keeps every value within the range that prints reliably: if it adjusts a value, the Checks list tells you why.
Export and print
- Choose 3MF · Bambu Studio / OrcaSlicer (all pieces laid out on one plate, ready to slice), 3MF · PrusaSlicer, or STL (one file per piece).
- Exporting an accessory counts as one export, like a design. See Exports and quotas.
- Every piece fits a 180 mm bed and is already oriented for printing. With separate clips nothing needs supports: every clip lies on its side, all on the same side, so keep them as they are.
- With built-in clips, keep the body standing as placed and turn on supports from the build plate only, under the hooks and stubs.
- Print the clips with 0.2 mm layers and 100 % infill, on the same plate as the body or at least two sets together: tiny clips printed alone overheat.
- PETG is the best choice for clips and hooks that flex or carry weight; PLA works but is more brittle under load.
- Use 4 walls and 20–30 % infill for the bodies of hooks and shelf brackets.
- For the filament pin, use 1.75 mm PETG or fresh PLA filament and cut it with a sharp blade.
- Test one hook on a calibration coupon before printing a whole set.
License
Accessory files are yours to print. They may never be sold or shared as files, on any tier. On the Commercial tiers you may sell physical prints of accessories, for example together with a board. See Licenses.