This guide covers boards made with the Infinite pegboard, SVG → pegboard and Text → pegboard workflows, which hang on countersunk screw anchors. Shaped-panel compositions hang on keyholes instead — see Shaped frames: keyholes, fixing and LEDs. If your board has several pieces, read Joining pieces too.

How an anchor works

Each anchor is a boss on the back of a piece. The screw passes through it into a wall plug; its countersunk head seats in a 90° cone 5.5 mm from the wall, clamping solid plastic, not the thin panel. A printed cap closes the hole above the head, flush with the front. Separators — plain feet — hold the rest of the board at the same distance from the wall.

Section through an anchor. The standoff is the space behind the board where hooks hang.

Anchors never take a hole away. Anchors and separator feet only sit in the gaps between the holes, at points where the boss behind the board touches no hole and stays clear of each hole’s hook zone — the strip about 12 mm below a hole where clips and wire hooks drop behind the board. On the capsule system these are the diagonal gaps between the slots, and the boss is Ø 13.8 mm; on the round-hole grids it is Ø 16 mm, centred between four holes. Only a Custom type with holes so dense that there is no free spot at all makes the anchors remove the holes they cover, and the app warns you when that happens.

Where the anchors go

The Mounting tab of the editor sets the Anchor placement. Pick one of three modes. Whichever you choose, anchors only go on the hole-safe spots described above, the app checks the load, and the drilling guide shows every row.

Mode	You decide	The app decides	Good for
Automatic (by load) — the default, recommended	Wall material and expected load	How many anchors, their rows and positions	Almost every board
Fixed grid	How many level rows, and how many anchors per row	Where the rows and positions go	A regular pattern decided in advance
Manual	Every anchor, placed in the Plan view	The exact hole-safe spot next to where you click	Studs, battens, plugs already in the wall, pipes and cables to avoid

On the default design — a 1200 × 800 mm capsule board sliced for a 256 mm bed into 24 pieces joined by spline strips, with a design load of 59 kg — the modes give:

Placement	Anchors	Rows (mm from the bottom edge)	Capacity
Automatic (default)	24	30 · 270 · 530 · 770	180 kg
Automatic, At least one anchor per piece off	12	30 · 430 · 770	120 kg
Fixed grid 3 × 4 (default)	12	30 · 430 · 770	120 kg
Fixed grid 2 × 3	6	30 · 770	90 kg
Fixed grid 5 × 8	40	30 · 230 · 430 · 550 · 770	240 kg
Fixed grid 1 × 1	1	770	15 kg — too little, the app warns
Manual, the example below	4	30 · 770	60 kg

The anchors of a row sit at these distances from the left edge: 50 · 270 · 490 · 710 · 930 · 1150 mm in Automatic mode; 50 · 410 · 770 · 1150 mm with the switch off and with the 3 × 4 grid; 50 · 610 · 1150 mm with 2 × 3; 610 mm with 1 × 1.

The default design in Automatic mode hangs its 24 pieces on 24 anchors in 4 level rows.

Automatic (by load)

The default mode, designed for drilling:

A few shared horizontal rows. Every piece hangs on the same rows, so each row is one level line on the wall.
The same positions in every row. Anchors line up vertically too, as far as the seams allow.
Top row high, bottom row low. The top row sits close to the top edge — it takes the pull of everything hanging in front of the board — and the bottom row close to the bottom edge. Rows stay at least 15 mm from the edges and off horizontal seams.
Spacing limits. Rows are at most 450 mm apart and anchors in a row at most 400 mm apart (Max. row spacing and Max. anchor spacing under Show advanced); the outer anchors sit about 50 mm from the sides.
Sized for the load. When the expected load needs more, the layout adds columns first, then rows — never closer than 80 mm.

The At least one anchor per piece switch (on by default) decides whether every piece gets anchors of its own:

On: each piece has its own anchors — at least one on a piece joined to its neighbours by spline strips or puzzle tabs that actually sit on its seams, and at least two with butt joints, when no strip or tab fits its seams, or when the piece stands alone. That gives the default board its 24 anchors (12 on a 350 mm bed, with fewer and bigger pieces), or 48 with butt joints.
Off: only the anchors the load and the spacing limits need, so there are fewer holes to drill. Pieces without an anchor hang on their neighbours through the glued joints between them (see Pieces without an anchor). Every group of joined pieces still gets at least two anchors, so it can’t swing on a single screw, and a group that no strip can tie to an anchored one gets anchors of its own. The saving grows with the board: the default board goes from 24 to 12 anchors, a 3000 × 2000 mm board from 117 to 78, a 6000 × 4000 mm wall from 1450 to 550. With butt joints, the default board keeps 12 anchors and the app adds glued strips to the 12 pieces left without one.

Fixed grid

Semi-automatic: you choose the numbers, the app finds the spots. Set Level rows (1–20, default 3) and Anchors per row (1–40, default 4) with the − and + buttons. The tab draws a preview of the grid in the board’s proportions and shows the total, for example 3 × 4 = 12 anchors.

Rows run from the lowest to the highest usable row — close to the bottom and top edges, as in Automatic mode — with the others spread as evenly as the hole grid and the horizontal seams allow. A single row is the top row: it takes the pull of everything hanging in front.
Positions are the same in every row, so the anchors line up vertically: the outer ones about 50 mm from the sides, the rest evenly spaced between them. A single anchor per row goes as close to the middle as it can.
Obstacles move an anchor along its row, never off it. When a seam, a joint, a raised-letter cut-out or the outline is in the way, the anchor takes the nearest free spot on the same row.
The load doesn’t move anything. The app compares what the grid can carry with the design load and warns when it is too low: add rows or anchors per row, or choose a stronger fixing.
When the rows are full — on a small board, or with many seams — the app keeps the anchors that fit and tells you how many that is.
Every piece must still be held, by an anchor of the grid or by a glued joint to a piece that has one. The app adds glued strips where that helps (see Pieces without an anchor); a piece that nothing holds even then is an error. Add rows or anchors per row, or switch to Automatic or Manual.
Text signs made of several boards (Per word or Per line) get the grid on each board: a 3 × 4 grid on a two-word sign gives up to 24 anchors. The Mounting and Summary tabs show the real total.

Manual

You place every anchor yourself: on the studs of a timber-frame or drywall wall, on a batten, in plugs that are already in the wall, or away from pipes, cables and tile joints.

Choose Manual in the Mounting tab. If you haven’t placed any anchors in this project yet, the app starts from the layout that was on screen, so you only move what you need to (one undo step).
Click Place in Plan view. The Plan view opens with placing on. Over the board, a ghost anchor shows where a click would put it — already snapped — with its distances from the board’s edges.
Click to add an anchor. Drag an anchor to move it; it jumps from spot to spot. Click an anchor to select it, then use the arrow keys to move it one spot (Shift: five spots) or Del / Backspace to remove it. Every change is one undo step.
Check the result in the Mounting tab — the number of anchors placed and the capacity against the load — and fix any anchor the app can’t use (see below).

Placing stays on while the board is in Manual mode and the Mounting tab is open or a manual anchor is selected; the rest of the time, clicks in the Plan view select pieces as usual, and the Edit anchors button at the bottom of the view turns placing back on. A click while an anchor is selected first just deselects it.

Snapping. Each anchor moves to the nearest hole-safe spot within one spot of where you clicked — 20 mm on the capsule system, 25 or 25.4 mm on the round-hole grids — so it never costs a hole, stays inside one piece and keeps clear of seams, joints and the other anchors. On the default board, clicks 100, 600 and 1100 mm from the left edge at a height of 770 mm, plus one at 600 mm at a height of 30 mm, give anchors at 90, 610 and 1090 mm and at 610 mm: 60 kg of capacity for the 59 kg design load — just enough.

Start from automatic layout copies the anchors Automatic mode would place (with your At least one anchor per piece setting), so you only move the ones that miss a stud. It asks before it replaces anchors you placed. Clear all asks first too, and both are one undo step. Your manual anchors are kept when you switch to another mode, so you can compare and come back.

Manual mode never adds anchors by itself. Pieces without an anchor are held by glued joints to pieces that have one (see Pieces without an anchor), and a piece that nothing holds gets a warning that names it. While no anchor is placed at all, you see a single notice instead.

Anchors that can’t be used

The app keeps every anchor you place, but uses only those it can snap to a free spot. The others are drawn in red with a cross in the Plan view — hover one to read why — and listed under Anchors that can’t be used in the Mounting tab, where you can select or remove them. The Issues tab counts them. They are left out of the board, the load check and the drilling guide until you move them.

The app says	Why	What to do
It is outside the board.	The point is off the board’s outline.	Drag it onto the board, or remove it.
It is on a hole or inside the cut-out of a raised letter.	You clicked right on a hole, or inside the opening a raised letter fits into.	Move it to the gap between holes, or beside the letter.
It is too close to a seam between two pieces or its joint.	An anchor needs solid material around it, clear of the seam and of the strip recesses or puzzle tabs next to it.	Move it further into one of the pieces.
Another anchor already takes this spot.	It snaps to the same spot as an anchor placed before it, or the two would touch.	Remove the duplicate, or move it a spot further.
No spot clear of the holes nearby fits inside a piece.	It is too close to the outline, or the piece is too small for an anchor.	Move it towards the middle of a piece.

Pieces without an anchor

A piece doesn’t need an anchor of its own when a glued joint ties it to a piece that has one: spline strips glued into their recesses — or puzzle tabs — make the joined pieces act as one rigid board. That is what lets Fixed grid, Manual and Automatic with At least one anchor per piece off use fewer anchors.

Glued strips are added where a piece would hang loose. On Infinite, SVG and Text boards alike, a piece that has no anchor and no strip or tab joining it to an anchored piece gets spline strips on its seams — even with butt or puzzle joints — and the Issues tab names it. Glue those strips in: they carry the piece. With spline strips as the joint (the default), every seam where a strip fits already has one.
Strips only help within one board. They are added where a chain of seams leads to an anchored piece. A separate part — another word of a sign, a separate part of an SVG — needs anchors of its own.
A piece that nothing holds is reported. If a piece still has no anchor and no glued joint to an anchored one, it would hang loose: the Issues tab shows an error in Automatic and Fixed grid mode, and a warning in Manual mode, where you may still be placing anchors. The app still tries to give such a piece a small separator foot, so it sits level with its neighbours.

How to glue the strips, and what to do with puzzle tabs on pieces without an anchor: Joining pieces.

Per piece (legacy)

Per piece (legacy) is the older layout: two anchors near the top corners of every piece, or four on pieces of at least 170 × 170 mm (or a fixed number per piece). It needs more holes and every piece has its own heights, so it is harder to level. It is only offered in projects that already use it.

Load and wall material

Tell the app what the wall is and what will hang on the board, and it checks that the anchors can carry it. In Automatic mode the load also decides how many anchors there are; with a fixed grid or manual anchors it doesn’t move any anchor, it is only checked against what they can carry.

Wall materialDefault Masonry: Masonry — brick or concrete, with 6 mm plugs. Wood — solid wood, plywood or studs, screwed straight in. Drywall — plasterboard; see the warning below.
Expected loadDefault 25 kg/m² (Medium)Range 2–150 kg/m²: What hangs on each square metre of board. Presets: Light 10 kg/m² (hand tools, cables, small parts), Medium 25 kg/m² (power tools, jars and bins), Heavy 50 kg/m² (shelves, full bins, heavy tools).
Max. anchor spacingDefault 400 mmRange 120–1200 mm: Automatic mode only. Largest horizontal distance between two anchors in a row. Upper limit only: the load may add anchors.
Max. row spacingDefault 450 mmRange 120–1200 mm: Automatic mode only. Largest vertical distance between two rows.

How the check works, in every mode:

Design load = 2 × (expected load × board area + the board’s own weight). The factor 2 is the safety margin.
Capacity: each 4 mm screw anchor counts for a conservative working load — masonry 15 kg, wood 20 kg, drywall 3 kg. Because loads hang in front of the board, the top row alone must carry at least half of the design load (more when the board is short), so capacity is limited by the top row as well as by the total. The four manual anchors of the example above, three of them in the top row, count for 4 × 15 = 60 kg in total and 3 × 15 kg / 0.5 = 90 kg for the top row, so their capacity is 60 kg. Anchors low on the board add less than anchors along the top.
The Mounting tab and the Summary tab show the result and the placement mode — for example 24 anchors in 4 level rows · capacity 180 kg ≥ load 59 kg for the default design. If the capacity is lower than the load, the app warns you and suggests what fits the mode: a lower maximum spacing in Automatic mode, more rows or anchors per row for a fixed grid, more anchors — especially along the top — in Manual mode. Stronger fixings or a lighter load help in every mode.

The drilling guide

You don’t need to hold the board against the wall to mark the holes: the app gives you every measurement.

In the editor, open the Plan view (2). With View → Drilling guide on (the default), every anchor row is drawn as a dashed level line with its height from the board’s bottom or top edge (Measure rows from), and the anchors’ distances from the left edge form a scale above the board. A row whose anchors sit at other positions than the top row (separate text or SVG panels, for example) gets its own distances under its line. When two row labels would overlap, the lower one moves just below its line instead of disappearing.
On the assembly map (…-assembly.svg, in the ZIP of multi-piece exports, or as SVG · assembly map on its own, which is free and doesn’t use an export), each row is a level line with its height from the bottom edge (↑) and from the top edge (↓); a scale above the board gives each anchor’s distance from the left edge (when rows use different positions, each anchor also gets its own distance label), and a legend lists the number of anchors and rows, the wall material and the design load against the capacity.

The guide works the same in every mode: anchors at the same height form one row, whether the app placed them or you did. In Manual mode every different height is a line of its own, so keep anchors on shared heights where you can — snapping helps, because nearby clicks land on the same row of spots. To read one anchor’s exact position, click it in the Plan view: the Selection tab shows its distance from the left edge and from the bottom edge (and the top edge, when the guide measures from the top), its row and its piece.

All measurements refer to the board’s outline: its bottom-left corner is the origin.

Hardware

The anchors are sized for Ø 4 mm countersunk (flat-head) screws. Wood and chipboard (“universal”) screws with heads of 7.5–9 mm all seat in the Ø 10 mm countersink.

Wall	Fixing	Screw
Concrete, solid brick, stone	6 mm wall plug (6 × 30 mm)	4 × 45 mm countersunk
Hollow brick or block	6 mm plug for hollow masonry, or a long 6 × 50 mm plug	4 × 60 mm
Wood, plywood, OSB, studs	No plug; 3 mm pilot hole	4 × 30–40 mm wood screws (at least 30 mm of thread in the wood)
Plasterboard / drywall	Metal cavity anchors or spring toggles for 4 mm screws, or studs	As the anchor specifies; 4 × 45 mm into studs

Why 45 mm? A plug needs the screw to pass all the way through it, plus about one screw diameter. The head sits roughly 7 mm from the wall, so 30 mm of plug + 7 mm + 4 mm ≈ 41 mm → a 4 × 45 mm screw. Use 4 × 50 mm on uneven walls or behind tiles.

Mark, drill and hang

Draw the reference line. Decide where the board’s bottom edge goes and draw it on the wall as a level line (spirit level or laser), with a mark where the left edge starts. Hanging under a shelf or a ceiling? Switch the guide to Top and use the top edge instead.
Draw the rows. Measure each row’s height from the reference line at both ends of the board and join the marks with a level line. On a large wall, mark one row with the laser and measure the others from it.
Mark the anchors. Along each row, measure the anchors’ distances from the left edge. In Automatic and Fixed grid mode most anchors share the same positions, so a vertical line through each position (a plumb line or the laser) marks a whole column at once.
Drill. Masonry: Ø 6 mm holes at least 40 mm deep for 30 mm plugs, drill square to the wall, hammer mode only in concrete or stone. Wood: 3 mm pilot holes. Drywall: as your cavity anchors require.
Plug. Vacuum the dust out and tap the plugs in until they are flush with the wall surface.
Hang the pieces. Join them as described in Joining pieces — in sections you can lift, or piece by piece on the wall, starting with the bottom row. Hold each piece in place and drive its screws until the heads seat in their countersinks — then stop. Overtightening squeezes the plastic and bows the board. A piece without an anchor of its own has nothing to screw: it goes up glued to an anchored neighbour, as part of a section or glued on the wall.
Cap. Press a cap into each anchor; it sits flush with the front.

Levelling tips

Rows of holes are a second level line. On the capsule system, slots in the same row sit on a 40 mm rhythm; round grids are 25 or 25.4 mm. Check a row of holes with a level after the first piece is up.
Check the marks against the board. Before drilling a whole wall, hold the first piece to its marks: each anchor should sit exactly under its mark.
Walls are rarely flat. If a separator doesn’t touch the wall, don’t pull it in with a screw — slip a thin shim behind it instead.

Standoff: the space behind the board

Hooks and clips reach behind the board, so it must sit off the wall. How far follows the pegboard type: picking a type sets its recommended standoff (Wall distance in the Wall separators settings), and the app keeps the value within the type’s range. The Custom type follows its hole shape.

Wall distance per pegboard type
Pegboard type	Recommended	Allowed
Capsule system Custom, capsule holes	10 mm	From 6 mm
US 1/4″ US 1/8″ EU 5/25 Custom, round or square holes	12.7 mm (½″)	10–20 mm

Within that range, choose by the hooks you hang:

Hooks	Standoff
Printed capsule-system clips and hooks	10 mm (default); down to 6 mm for a slim board
Capsule twist-lock nuts, screws, metal accessories	15–20 mm
US wire hooks (1/4″ and 1/8″ boards)	12.7 mm (½″) (default) — they need at least ½″
European 4 mm wire hooks (EU 5/25 boards)	12.7 mm (default)

Separator feet sit on the same hook-safe spots as the anchors. They are spread so that no point of a piece is more than half the separator spacing (140 mm by default) from a support, preferring spots near the bottom edge, along seams and at the corners of each piece, where a board is pushed against the wall most.

Caps

Caps press into the counterbore above each screw and hide it completely. If one is loose, add a small drop of glue; if it is tight, sand its side lightly or raise the fit clearance next time. To take a board down, lever the cap out with a thin flat blade.

Taking it down

Remove the caps, unscrew the anchors and lift the board off. The plugs can stay in the wall for next time. Boards joined with glued spline strips come off in one piece; puzzle-jointed boards without glue can be taken apart piece by piece.

Mounting guide