Pegboard Maker hands your slicer pieces that are already oriented, packed onto plates that fit your bed, and split into colour parts. Your job is to choose a material and a handful of settings. This page covers both.

Materials

Material	Use it for	Notes
PLA	Most indoor boards	Stiff, accurate and easy. The defaults are tuned for PLA. Softens from about 55 °C: keep it out of hot cars, attics and sunny windows.
PETG	Garages, sheds, heavier tools	Tougher and less brittle than PLA, handles warm rooms. Strings a little more; on smooth PEI use glue stick as a release agent.
ASA / ABS	Sun and heat	For boards in direct sunlight or very hot spaces. Needs an enclosure; large flat pieces tend to warp.
Tough / “PLA+”	Everyday boards	Behaves like PLA with a bit more impact resistance.

Avoid silk and other decorative filaments for pieces that carry load or hold screws: they look great but bond more weakly between layers. Use them for inlay colours instead.

Face down, on purpose

Every panel arrives front face down. The first layer — the one pressed onto your build plate — becomes the face you see on the wall. Two things follow:

Colours are cheap. Inlays are the first few layers, so the printer only swaps colours at the very start of the print.
The build plate is your finish. A smooth PEI or glass plate gives a glossy front; a textured PEI plate gives a satin, grained front that hides fingerprints and scuffs. Clean the plate with dish soap and water (or isopropyl alcohol) before each print — every fingerprint shows.

Because the first layer is visible, a well-tuned first-layer height (Z offset) matters more than usual. The 45° chamfer on every hole hides a little squish; if hole edges still look pinched, enable your slicer’s elephant foot compensation (0.1–0.2 mm).

Back-side features — mount bosses, separators, spline recesses, labels — print on top of the panel and never need supports.

Multi-colour at a glance

Multi-colour boards need an AMS, MMU or multi-tool printer, and the right import:

Bambu Studio / OrcaSlicer: download the 3MF · Bambu Studio / OrcaSlicer file and use File → Import (Ctrl + I) — not Open — so a filament slot is created for every colour.
PrusaSlicer: download the 3MF · PrusaSlicer file, pick a multi-material printer profile, then import.
Any slicer: STL files, one per colour part, loaded together as one object.

Then match each slot to the colours in the README. Step-by-step instructions: Multi-colour and slicer import.

Recommended settings

Setting	Value	Why
Layer height	0.2 mm (0.16–0.28 mm works)	A good balance of speed and quality. Keep the inlay depth a multiple of it.
First layer height	0.2 mm	Matches the 0.6 mm inlays exactly (three layers), so colours stay crisp.
Walls / perimeters	3–4	Every hole gets a solid rim. Use 4 for heavy loads.
Bottom layers	4–5 (about 0.8–1 mm)	The bottom is the visible front face.
Top layers	4	The back; hidden, but it holds the structure together.
Infill	15–25 %	Gyroid, grid or cubic. 25 % for heavy tools. On thin boards (3 mm EU 5/25, 1/8″ US) use 100 %: little more than a millimetre is left between the bottom and top layers, and solid infill makes them noticeably stiffer.
Supports	Off	Every piece is designed to print without them, except an accessory with built-in clips (see Accessory clips).
Brim	Only when needed	See below.
Seam position	Aligned or rear	Keeps seams off visible edges.

Speeds, temperatures and cooling: use your printer’s standard profile for the filament.

Brims and warping

Pegboard pieces are large and flat, and corners can lift — especially PETG and ASA on big plates.

Start without a brim on PLA.
If corners lift, add an outer brim only, 3–5 mm wide. A normal brim would also fill the inside of holes near the edge. Brims need space: add their width to the bed margin in Pegboard Maker.
Let big pieces cool on the plate before removing them.
Keep filament dry; wet PETG strings and warps more.

Plates and files

When your design needs more than one plate, the export contains one 3MF per plate (…-plate-1-…, …-plate-2-…), each packed to fit your bed minus its margin with a 6 mm gap between pieces. You can print plates in any order and rearrange pieces in the slicer freely — just keep their orientation.

The plates are laid out so they slice as they are, without re-arranging:

The front-left corner (20 × 30 mm) stays free on every plate, because Bambu Lab X1 and P1 printers refuse to print there.
On plates with more than one colour in the 3MF · Bambu Studio / OrcaSlicer file, the back-left corner also stays free for the prime tower, where both slicers put it by default. That can add a plate or two to multi-colour designs.
Pieces with different colours go on separate plates whenever that doesn’t take more plates, so fewer plates need filament changes.

Only a piece too big to avoid one of those corners is placed over it; move the prime tower in the slicer if it collides.

The README.txt in the ZIP lists every plate, its pieces, the filaments with approximate weights, and assembly notes. STL files ending in -x3 mean print three copies.

Small parts

Caps for the wall mounts: print them in the board’s base colour, in one batch. They are small; slow down or use a small brim if they detach.
Spline strips, and the short bridge strips across straight seams: print flat, with 4 walls or 100 % infill — they carry the joint.
Shaped-panel frames and panels are separate pieces, so frames can be a different colour without any colour changes.

Accessory clips

The small clips that hold an accessory on the board are exported lying on their side, the direction in which they are strongest.

Print them with 0.2 mm layers and 100 % infill.
Print them with the body, or at least two sets together: tiny parts printed alone overheat.
Use PETG for hooks and for clips that flex; PLA works but is more brittle. With PETG and crush ribs, start with the Loose clip fit.
Filament pins: use 1.75 mm PETG or fresh PLA filament, and cut it with a sharp blade.

Built-in clips print with the body instead: keep it standing upright, as placed, and turn on supports from the build plate only, under the hooks and stubs (tree supports work well). Separate clips need none. Remove the supports and clean the underside of every lip and stub before hanging. See Built-in clips.

Before a big job

Print one piece first. Check that hooks go in by hand, that clips hold, that the piece lies flat and that the front face looks right. Adjust once, then print the rest with confidence — see Calibration and test prints. For multi-colour setups, continue with Multi-colour and slicer import.